Mount Ogden

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Mount Ogden
  • Location: Yoho National Park
  • Activity: Scrambling
  • Height: 2,695 m (8,842 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 1,100 m (3,609 ft)
  • Distance: 13.2 km / Round Trip (8.2 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 9.5°
  • Estimated Time: 6-8 hrs
  • Technicality: Expert.3b
  • Fitness Level: Moderate
Not too many reports for Ogden maybe beside traffic report on Ogden Road in Calgary. I mainly used Nugara's report which is currently not available.

Approach:
I followed the trail to Sherbrooke Lake. I went off trail before I arrived the south end of the lake. Not exactly sure where, but at the south end of the lake, it is wide and very shallow, and easy to walk. Here I made mistake to bushwhack the way up, but don't. It is terrible. Instead walk along the lake until below the drainage which you can see in page 2. Unfortunately the drainage dies down before it gets lake shore. The best way to tell is, at the south end you will see a big avalanche path, followed by tall trees. The drainage is at the end of the tall trees section (see page 4). So start bushwhacking when you get to close to the end of the tall tree section, you may run into branches of tiny creeks while bushwhacking under tall trees.

Summit Block:
Once on the drainage, it is straight forward until the summit block. Here I took different route from Nugara's. My route is not really recommended but can be done if you are comfortable enough. The tricky part is that the summit block is actually divided into two by a crack. How I did it was I scrambled up to the wrong side (closer block from approach route) from west side, then down climbed for 20 m on east side (lake side) because the crack was like chimney and at 20 m down, the chimney's depth was only less than 1 m so it was easy to get down and scramble up the true summit side. (See page 8, 9, 10, 14)

The crux was the downclimb from wrong side to the chimney. It was exposed and steep and often slabby. The true summit side was as steep but lots of good handholds, so it wasn't too bad.

On the way down, just like ascent I downclimbed to the chimney on east side. Then instead of dealing the crux again, walked up the chimney all the way up and stemmed up the crack.

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Good view to assess the route. Don't bushwhack, it's pretty bad. Mouseover for route line. The true summit is the second bump.

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T_T

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Pointing the drainage. Walk along lake shore and pass avalanche path. Somewhere near tall trees end, start ascending.

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On the ridge. View of Yoho area opened up.

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Sherbrooke Lake.

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The twin towers of Ogden. Far peak is the summit.

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Problematic summit block. Mouseover for my route line but not recommended.

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Slope (lake side) where I scrambled up and down.

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Another picture of the same slope from previous page. The summit block is divided by 2 parts by crack. This picture shows the summit side which is easier side.

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Mountains around Lake O'Hara.

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I somehow made my way to the summit. Phew…

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I searched around for alternate descent from this summit block, but only found someone left cord for rappelling.

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This is a picture of the crack which divides the summit block. About 4-5 m deep if I remember correctly.


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