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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Phillipps Peak
- Location: Crowsnest Pass
- Activity: Scrambling
- Height: 2,500 m (8,203 ft)
- Elevation Gain: 1,300 m (4,265 ft)
- Distance: 13.8 km / Loop (8.6 mi)
- Avg Steepness: 10.7°
- Estimated Time: 6.5-9 hrs
- Technicality: Advanced
- Fitness Level: Hard
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It seemed only area that getting low avalanche forecast in last a month were Waterton/Crowsnest/Fernie area. Me being "I still want winter scramble", I decided to drive to Crowsnest and stay at my house for this weekend again. At least this way, I could poke and annoy my nieces.
I was originally ascending to Mount Tecumseh until I got alpine. Once I saw how much snow on Phillpps Peak, I decided to go to Phillpps instead (I am dumb!!). Seeing the pictures from other sites, I knew traversing from Tecumseh to Phillpps doesn't look possible, I approached from south ridge and hoping I could make the way. Apparently this ended as an attempt. There was a dip right before the summit and I could not find a way. The dip was so well hidden I couldn't see it until I was there.
I used Kane's Scramble book. I parked on side of a road, then took Phillipps Pass from east side. After 3 km of easy walk, I saw a road going towards NE at waypoint "Blue Tape". Despite of the tape and maintained trail (or more like a road), the actual turn off was about 250 m after that (waypoint "Turn Right", also see page 4). Look for a big hydro tower for landmark. I stayed away from drainage the book talks about. Instead I walked on a slope just right side of the drainage. I found a nice animal trail there. Once at waypoint "Cairn 2", the route to Tecumseh was very clear (page 5). From there I scrambled up rather a steep slope for snow covered condition to get on the south ridge (page 6). Once on the ridge, I pretty much stayed on ridge and kept ascending. There were 2 or 3 spots required some scramble. If it was dry, it would be only moderate scramble but with so much snow covered and rocks here were worn out and hard to grab, I had hard time. Eventually I hit the dip near the summit. I found a way to get down west side of summit block (page 14), but I could not traverse to the north side. That's where I gave up.
If Phillipps can be done, my best guess is from north west ridge where I marked a red arrow on the map. But I could not get even close enough to see that side so it is totally my guess.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
A picture taken from road where I parked. Snowing my route. Mouseover to see the dip. This picture was the only picture that I could visually see the dip. Any other pictures from the south ridge, I cannot see this dip.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Sentry Mountain & Crowsnest Lake. When I was a student we came this lake to canoe, but one of my buddy misunderstood the difference between canoeing and flipping canoe while someone is on. Hehehe good memories.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
This is where turn off from Phillipps Pass. Look for the hydro tower. The drainage started right there.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
After drainage. More snow than I anticipated, however I didn't need snowshoe for this sun baked snow.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Going up to get on the south ridge.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Seeing Phillipps and Tecumseh from the ridge was superb.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
There were so much snow, often poking snow with ice axe didn't reach the rock below.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Another photo of Phillipps and Tecumseh.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
This was where I found out there was a dip. I tried to traverse to north side from here.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Looking east side. Coleman (town), and Turtle Mountain can be seen. Seven Sisters and tip of Crowsnest Mountain behind the sub peak between Phillipps and Tecumseh.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
At this point, I was standing on Continental Divide.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
I found a way to get down to the bottom of summit block. I found a hole or could be a cave, but I didn't bother checking out. The slabby rock gave me hard time. Interestingly I had easier time downclimbing. That was because I could dip my crampons to sticky snow, but for upclimbing, I realized I kicked off sticky snow and now I had to deal with wet slabby rock which was way too steep to rely on friction. I thought, I only have 3 options. I will be stuck here and become a caveman for rest of my life, try friction play and go up, or try friction play and fail and slide down and fall off from a cliff waiting for me not too far from where I was. Who says downclimb is more difficult...
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Big concave on the side of the summit block.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
I came this far but the slope was just to steep to continue. Only way I say was to go farther down and traverse this slope. But as stable as snow was, I didn't like the idea of walking this steep terrain at lower part. So I called it a day.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Caveman tryout. This is what you see everyday if you were a caveman.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
One last photo of this magnificent looking peak.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
On the way back, I took a gully to get down.
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Phillipps Peak Attempt | 2010-04-10
Mountains in Flathead Range. Mouseover for names.
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