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Goat Mountain | 2011-07-16
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Barbara and I wanted to do Goat Mountain but we had disagreement on which way we are going, either from Yam to Door Jamb or the other way, so we decided to decide it by rock-paper-scissors and I lost, so we went from Door Jamb to Yam route.
Despite we went the opposite way, we still used trip report by Bill Kerr on summitpost.org. We parked one car at Yamnuska parking and the other at a small parking spot with a lunch table near the cement plant. You might miss the trailhead to Door Jamb but if you are in doubt, just go up the ridge soon enough you will find the trail.
To Unnamed (Waypoint High Point):
At GR301631, there is a trail to go climber’s right and walk beside east face of unnamed (unnamed peak 6 in Bill Kerr’s TR). This trail bypasses the unnamed, but if you want to you can still get to it. The easiest way would be stay on the trail until the end of this bypass trail which will lead you to the unnamed / Goat col at GR298637. Then scramble back up on north ridge to the peak. In Bill Kerr’s TR, he reports there is 5.3 climb on this ridge (page 9). But that can be avoided by crawling a diagonal crack on a rockband like caving. (his picture here) We however, took a hard way to get to the unnamed. We took the first gully (most south) which took us near rappel point (see page 5). This route can be done without protection but recommended to use protection.
To Goat Mountain:
From unnamed / Goat col, there isn’t much. Perhaps it’s all moderate scrambling. By looking at picture in page 8, it seems very slabby towards the summit, but I already don’t remember anything about that section, so that must have been easy.
To Yamnuska Col:
From the summit to the next lowest point of the ridge was bit loose and had to be done carefully but was not difficult. There is a 25 m-ish slab downclimb at GR304643. It wasn’t too steep that if you are confident, this can be done without rope but since there were bolts we rappelled (page 15). In order to get to the NE face, the descent route to the Yam col, we had to first traverse a steep gully (page 17). It’s very steep and rocks are very lose perhaps this section wasn’t the crux but was the most problematic section of the whole traverse I might add. The last difficulty of the day was descending the NE face (page 18) to the Goat/Yam col. Bill Kerr suggests taking a gully which is rated 5.3, but I found gully is steeper. I elected not to take the gully. I think my way was only difficult scramble but unlike gully it was probably looser because there were small rocks everywhere.
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