Columbia Icefield | Ski Mountaineering in Jasper National Park

01 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

Columbia Icefield

Location: Jasper National Park
Activity: Ski Mountaineering
Height: 2,830 m (9,285 ft)
Elevation Gain: 1,140 m (3,740 ft)
Distance: 21.0 km / One Way (13.0 mi)
Avg Steepness: 3.1°
Estimated Time: 10-12 hrs
Technicality: Expert.I
Fitness Level: Athlete

Download GPX: [Trail] Mount Columbia Attempt.gpx
OpenStreetMap: See track recorded by GPS
Print: Display in printer-friendly format
Conditions:
- Weather
- Avalanche Bulletin
External Links:
- explor8ion.com
Note: The stats is as if you camp around GR769762 (before losing evelation for the trench), not where we camped.

Seeing very very exciting weekend forecasts, we came up with a lot of plans. Suggested objectives became bigger and bigger, and after zillion emails flying back and forth, we settled to Mount Columbia, the second tallest in the Canadian Rockies.

Columbia Icefield:
We decided to take safer Saskatchewan Glacier approach to the icefield. We were little worried about crossing a creek at parking lot, but turned out to be it was piece of cake this time around. We had couple of snow bridges to use. After that we followed trail to Saskatchewan Glacier. Again this time around, everything was snow covered and frozen, we could keep our skies on rather than carrying them. I cannot imagine carrying skies and boots on top of heavy big multi-day pack on muddy wetland in spring like many people have done... The glacier was very well filled. It was simply a long and way toooooo gentle uphill.

We camped at GR797755 not because we wanted but because we were too exhausted to continue. It would be better to at least go 3km farther before a prominent trench like described in the 11,000ers book.

Mount Columbia:
I somehow managed to injure my left leg from slogging on Saskatchewan, it was apparent that I would not make it. So less than 1 km away from the camp, I decided to turn around. So rest of the stories you have to check out Vern's TR.

Descent:
We went back Saskatchewan under whiteout.

Tips:
After this experience, next time I would go up Athabasca and use Saskatchewan for descent even this means requiring two cars. Shorter and less elevation gain with Athabasca should help to camp closer to the Columbia and take safer Saskatchewan for descent especially with skis make a lot of sense to me.

02 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

The beginning of a long slog.

03 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

Crossing creek.

04 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

Sun hitting Mount Andromeda's SE ridge and Hilda Ridge? (I'm very confused about the ridge connects Athabasca and Parker Ridge. Is it really called Hilda Ridge or I am mistaken?)

05 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

Right before entering Saskatchewan Glacier. It was like frozen sea.

06 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

Mount Columbia east ridge right in front.

07 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

Sunset time at the icefield. The white wall, Castleguard Mountain on left and another 11,000er in the area, Mount Bryce on the right.

08 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

… Something very very magical.

09 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

As much as I wanted to stay out to enjoy the views, we had to get ready for tomorrow for Mount Columbia.

10 Columbia Icefield | 2012-02-04

Finally first time with Ferenc, the Banded King. You may know him from Nugara's website or from Banded Peak Challenge. He is the current defending champion and… not sure are you the current record holder too?