01

Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Mount Victoria
  • Location: Yoho National Park
  • Activity: Mountaineering
  • Height: 3,464 m (11,365 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 750 m (2,461 ft)
  • Distance: 6.5 km / Round Trip (Hut to hut) (4.0 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 17.7°
  • Estimated Time: 7-9 hrs
  • Technicality: Expert.II
  • Fitness Level: Moderate

After a short stop at Wiwaxy East Peak, we headed to Abbot Pass Hut. Next day we had much better condition than a year ago when Shaun and I tried Mount Victoria for the 1st time.

Long story short, Mount Victoria was so beautiful and it is one of my top 3 peaks! However I could not take as many pictures as I wanted because I realized I forgot memory card and my camera was storing pictures in internal memory which is only 86MB! OMG! I had to delete some pictures from Wiwaxy and set picture resolution low... Madness!

SE Ridge:
I believe route-finding wise, the section between the hut and till get to ridge top is the most difficult part. Of course I got lost going up from the hut. Good news was that we still could fix the mistake without much problem. My tip is, you can aim the rock face with 3 bumps in page 18 once are you high enough. You should be able to see the shape at least even when it is bit dark.

Technically I heard horror stories of Victoria due to bad conditions, but for us the condition was as good as it can get, places where it can be dry were all dry and we didn't have much problem.

There is a rockband about half way of the glacier which is below waypoint "Cairn 4" in the map (page 8 and 14). We were suppose to climb up but we didn't and that was another mistake we made. By not doing so we were forced to traverse a steep ice slope without anything that we could use to protect us. As soon as we found a weakness we climbed up the rock and stayed off the ice.

The rest of the way was easy and pleasant for us. I did see scratches from crampons on rocks to indicate some people walked on some sketchy places. I believe that was because they had no choice probably because of snow whenever they were there.

02

Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Going up in dark is always difficult.

03

Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Some lake down there.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

We were supposed to be on top of the ridge where the snow slope is below, but instead we went under the snow slope and off route. Route finding in dark is so difficult…

05

Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Victoria Glacier was bigger than I imagined. I didn't think it is this big seeing from Lake Louise.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

What a view already.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Had to wear or take off crampons here and there.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

This is where I marked "Climb" on page 1's map. We should have climbed up somewhere, but we stayed on the snow which got us in trouble dealing with a steep scary and exposed ice slope. On the way down we made sure to stay on rock. (See page 15, I believe this is where people climb up normally.)

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

The view from the ridge is priceless.

10

Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

The ridge continues.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Mount Huber.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

The summit. Shaun didn't recognize Lake Louise nor Mount Temple… Mouseover for the peak pointers.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Another panorama.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

We met a mountain guide and his girl friend at the hut. They said they were doing both Vic and Huber, but they had such a late start, we run into them on the way back from Vic, they were still heading to Vic.

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

The climbing part. Shaun decided to take a picture of my pretty ass.
(Photo By Shaun Luong)

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

At U-shaped Sickle described in the 11er book.
(Photo By Shaun Luong)

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

This is only 3rd picture of Shaun actually looking at camera out of 8. He acts like a teen!

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

Let me guess, I think at least 5 pictures of me taken at Lake Louise while I was taking this picture. Paparazzis…

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Mount Victoria | 2013-08-19

If u get lost in the dark, aim that 3 points ridge.

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