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Mount Little | 2012-08-19
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Our original plan was Mount Fay via west ridge, but according to a guide we met at the hut he told us there is a big bergschrund and cannot get to the couloir where normally people take, so we had to take another couloir next to it. However once we were there, even the other couloir had a good size bergschrund, so considering our experience, we decided not to try Fay, so instead we did Mount Little.
To Mount Little:
Little looked quite difficult from the hut, but it actually easier than how it appears. See page 2 for route line. From the hut, travel the glacier and go up the hill. Once you get to the end of glacier, you can dump rope and other gears, and switch to scramble. Stay on the ridge all the way to the summit from there. Despite it was pretty much moderate scramble, there was a short section where it was steep, rocks were loose, ground was wet and loose. I didn't like that section. For descent we rappelled the steep glacier slope.
Perren Route Descent:
No one quite remembers how many rappel we had. But according to my GPS's timestamp and pictures timestamp, we had 4 rappels, 2 pitches of 2. If I am wrong, sorry. Once you get to the 1st rap, there was a good trail all the way down, so I don't think it necessary to write up description here. Page 18, 19 are picture from 1st rap section. Page 20 is second rap section. There was also one place we saw a rope already setup. It's only moderate and when it's dry, the rope is totally not necessary but I can see it can be handy when it's wet.
As if you are going up via Perren Route:
Walked along the Moraine Lake, walk across a log bridge (page 27). Keep going along the lake until you come across a big cube rock (I think it was like 1.5 m cubic big, don't remember exactly). There should be another trail to south from the rock, follow the trail. It will lead to a bouldering field and by then you should see a scree slope where you should be start ascending (page 25). Stay close to the cliff seen in page 25, there should be a trail. At the near end of the scree (before it curves to left and becomes gully), you should scramble up on climber's left. Go up where I am pointing on page 24, you should find a trail which will take you all the way up to glacier.
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