01

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

Abbot Pass Hut
  • Location: Yoho National Park
  • Activity: Scrambling
  • Height: 2,925 m (9,597 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 980 m (3,215 ft)
  • Distance: 5.1 km / One Way (3.2 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 10.9°
  • Estimated Time: 3-5 hrs
  • Technicality: Intermediate
  • Fitness Level: Moderate

Above stats are to the Abbot Pass Hut. Stats from the Hut to the summit are in page 12.

I was invited to Ben’s trip to attempt to summit Mount Lefroy. I couldn’t say “NO”. Weather forecast was perfect for the weekend, I was so pumped up!! Initially this was 4 man party but at the last minutes Wil have joined and that changed everything, mainly weather. Yoho didn’t like his present and decided to be nasty.

Day 1: To Abbot Pass Hut
Weather was snow/rain. Not fun to be at Lake O’Hara when it’s like that, but I was confident Sunday will be super, so under miserable condition we left the bus stop. This is well maintained area that we didn’t have much trouble following trail signs to get to the Lake Oesa. At near the lake shore, There were small trail signs to indicate the way to the hut (see page 3 for route line). From here to ascent gully, look for blue/yellow paint on rocks to indicate route. The condition was pretty much winter there. As we went up the gully, more fresh snow on the slope and soon we were in cloud. There was anywhere between 5 to 20 cm of new snow and under the snow we had good snow to kick step. Couldn’t see much but all we had to do was follow the gully so we arrived the hut without getting lost.

Day 2: Mount Lefroy
To be honest we were in doubt but since we came up here, we were ready to attempt. The weather forecast was sunny, but turned out to be windy snowing condition from Friday lasted until Sunday. We left the hut at 4:30 am. Still there was no visibility, but at least temperature stayed low. We took the same normal route covered in “The 11,000ers” book by Bill Corbett. We roped up at the first hump where terrain was flattened about 80 m up from the hut. There was 20 to 30 cm of new snow on the first 200 m elevation, but no sign of avalanche and weather wasn’t look like going to be sunny either so we kept continue ascending farther. As we went up, there wasn’t as much snow as lower bottom. We (or should say Ben) had to kick step more. There were couple of icy sections but wasn’t ice. We still could make steps. Nearing the summit the temp was -7°. The famous gully was steep as people say. It’s not the steepness that surprised me, it was 40 to 55 degrees most of the way, but how long it was. The steep slope was non-stop pretty much all the way up from the hut to the summit for 500 m elevation. Really the only flat place we had was the hump near the hut. So if you go, be sure to take care of other businesses such as drinking enough water and eating food. Go pee, etc. Make your trip more comfortable.

One of my friends who attempted Lefory next day after us, said there were avalanches even on the way to the hut in Sunday afternoon, so we were so lucky to be there at the right window. We heard or saw no avalanches in Sunday morning. Big thanks to Ben who coordinated the trip and taught us some rope work, and leading the team safely to the summit.

02

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

It's raining… (`ε´) All Wil's fault!!

03

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

At Lake Oesa. Checking the route. Mouseover for approximate. route line.

04

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

Winter here. I was expecting to see snow but wasn't expecting to see ice on lake. Last year when I came here in mid July it was summer. What a difference.

05

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

Using ledges to go over the rockbands.

06

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

Bowers of the Rockies. LOL

07

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

Going up the steep gully.

08

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

Into Neptune.

09

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

After 4 hours of complaining about the weather, we arrived at the hut.

10

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

All day long, it was snowing. I had a chance to take this panorama when it cleared for shot period of time.

11

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-09

In the afternoon inside the hut, Ben taught us some rope work.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)

12

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Mount Lefroy
  • Location: Yoho National Park
  • Activity: Mountaineering
  • Height: 3,423 m (11,231 ft)
  • Elevation Gain: 520 m (1,706 ft)
  • Distance: 2.0 km / Round Trip (1.2 mi)
  • Avg Steepness: 27.5°
  • Estimated Time: 5-6 hrs (from Abbot Pass)
  • Technicality: Expert.II
  • Fitness Level: Moderate

Up at 3:30 am… (゚ρ`)

13

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Going up in dark. Watch out for dog poop!!

14

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps kick steps…

15

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Nearing the summit, visibility improved and we could see the ridge.

16

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Morning glory. Just as we arrived at the summit, we punch though clouds… (ノ_ё)

17

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Shining Victoria.

18

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

That was so cool all we can see was 11,000ers. Temple, Deltaform, Hungabee, Victoria…

19

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Group pic from left: me, Wil, and Ben. Ali behind camera. Too bad Heather couldn't join this moment. She cut her finger deep and had to turn back… I didn't mind to share the small space at the summit with one more person.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)

20

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Longer we stayed at the summit, more cloud opened up just round us.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)

21

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Last two attempts to go above cloud at Mount Rae and Mount Lougheed, I miserably failed. I guess extra 200 m made the difference!! What a place to go above the cloud!!

22

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Lefroy's scary ridge.

23

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Time to go back.

24

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Ali carefully downclimbing steep part near the summit.

25

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Two minutes break on a long long downclimb.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)

26

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

We had to down climb our face against the slope for 300 m. Painfully slow descent.

27

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Back to the hut at 10:00 am.

28

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Still 900 m of to descent.

29

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

Looking back.

30

Mount Lefroy | 2011-07-10

As much we complained about the weather, that weather made this trip possible + extra bonus going above clouds… AWESOME!!

RETURN TO TOP
 
CLICK BLANK SPACE OR PRESS ESCAPE TO EXIT
CLICK BLANK SPACE OR PRESS ESCAPE TO EXIT
CLICK BLANK SPACE OR PRESS ESCAPE TO EXIT
CLICK BLANK SPACE OR PRESS ESCAPE TO EXIT
CLICK BLANK SPACE OR PRESS ESCAPE TO EXIT
CLICK BLANK SPACE OR PRESS ESCAPE TO EXIT
CLICK BLANK SPACE OR PRESS ESCAPE TO EXIT