Mount Warren | 2011.09.04
This is day 2 of Brazeau Icefield invasion trip. After evil Ben wake me up at 4:30, we left camp around 5:30 to Mount Warren, the questionably 11,000er not covered in the 11,000er book.
Pretty much straight forward. From the campsite, walk north. Unfortunately the first job was to lose elevation from the camp and walk across a smaller glacier to the other side where dry rock leads to easier access to main Brazeau Icefield. On the dry rock, scramble up slightly to the right (east).
BTW, as the book describes, there was no water source at the camp, but we found water here at this dry rock section. Maybe it’s a good idea to bring bigger water container on the way up and leave it here. On the way back, fill water and bring it back to the camp.
On the main icefield, we kept continue marching north. Another unfortunate, near Brazeau-Valad col, we had to lose even more elevation (page 8)… After traversing east side of Mount Brazeau, we turned left (NW) towards Warren’s east ridge.
Gaining the ridge was easy, we simply scrambled up dry rubble slope (page 9). However near the bottom on the rubble slope, there were small crevasses, so be careful. Not too difficult, but the crux of the day was the steepest part of this ridge. It was around 45 degrees and had 2 small bergschrunds (page 11).
The east ridge gradually became gentle towards the false summit. Ridge from the false summit to the true summit was enjoyable and wasn’t narrow. Even though Monkhead and Warren are often climbed together (somehow I highly doubt it...), we decided to descent and went back to the camp.
* Grid References (GR) is based on WGS84 which can be considered as NAD83 (The difference is inciginificant)