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Pink line is the actual track I took which was recorded by my GPS. I suggest to take the descent route (south route) which involves less bushwhacking for approach. Compression was more like advanced rather than expert.
Everyone prepared for this trip in their own ways.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)
That morning was cold, when we get out of car we immediately felt chill. On the way to the peak of Nihahi Ridge. Ridge behind is Compression Ridge.
About 3 hours to the Nihahi Ridge's peak. Group picture. My Hulk gloves wanted more! From left, Ali, Mark, me & Hulk, then Shaun.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)
Shaun thought he can get away from my Hulk gloves… you are wrong!
(Photo By Shaun Luong)
Approach route. Even where there was no opening, bush wasn't too dense, bushwhacking wasn't so bad.
Now a long ridge awaited for us.
Compression Ridge was major let down to be honest because 85% of ridge was like this. 10% moderate scramble and 5% difficult scramble. Well I should say 5% of narrow sections, not scrambling.
Avoidable rock fin, but we had to play with it.
From Ali's angle. The rock fin was very narrow it was about half foot wide and very very lose.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)
Shaun was on drug that day. He decided to down climb the rock fin. That's right, down climb the lose narrow and exposed rock fin. As he risk himself, he demonstrated me how lose the rocks were by moving them and told me "It's ok to push down but don't pull sideways, see." I thought, "Dude, don't worry, I am NOT planning to do the crazy thing you are doing!!"
At least he made it safely.
It's interesting to know how this rock got so washed out. It's not near glacier or anything.
This is as narrow as it got for Compression on proper route. As you can see it's not that narrow or exposed.
You probably won't recognize, but this is a spot from Kane's book's picture.
At peak. AGAIN, Hulk gloves gone wild!
Right after the peak, there was the first window.
When you see this pinnacle, I suggest to go to the right and avoid it, not like us…
(Photo By Shaun Luong)
At the end of the pinnacle we saw this drop. I thought "ahhhh we have to go back, no big deal." but Mark had something different in his mind. He said "I think it's doable." DOABLE?
Without waiting for the other two to catch us up and examine the death down climb, Mark started to descent. So it began… our tradition, the off route to the death zone!!
The first half was ok because there were ledges, but the second half where Mark is in the picture, there is nothing but smooth slab.
(Photo By Shaun Luong)
Death zone!! Mouse over to see the route.
The power of Hulk!! My Hulk gloves made a crack to this rock.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)
The second window. To climb on top of the window requires rock climbing. Only Shaun, a rock climber, could do it.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)
Descent. The death zone pinnacle and the second window pinnacle.
(Photo By Ali Shariat)
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